They were nice and Id always wanted a pair but like most things, the wanting was better than the having. Or other reason? A guide on how to care for cordovan shoes can be found here, In-depth How adhesives affect form and function in footwear, Guide Tanning and treatment methods of leather, https://shoegazing.com/2017/04/02/guide-care-of-cordovan/, https://stridewise.com/is-cordovan-leather/, https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/800/0*Sn-Siz4wX_IDteTp, Buying tip - Three highly interesting new shoemakers, Guide - How to prevent and remove mould from leather shoes, The tip - Reasons for heel slippage, and the solutions, The tip - Fix loose loafers with tongue pads, The tip - How to avoid and fix stains from hand sanitisers. Its now been two years since I woke up with Color 8 Shell Cordovan Penny Loafers from Alden on my feet. Additional finish definitely matters I suppose. It is all essentially corium. On the other hand, Alden makes some iconic casual shoes which many believe look best sockless and paired with shorts. Ive used Alden, but Id also recommend Yorkshire Sole I saw a friends repair their on Aldens and it was very good. Finished products tend to improve with wear, but also forgotten or dead stock bundles exhibit positive change - excess waxes and oils migrate to the surface, colors deepen and redden, and sun fades or darkens. I mean, I see cons, but what exact reasons of yours? I really enjoy the profile of your low-vamp Alden penny loafer, cordovan or not. Very interesting the combination of loafers and selvedge denim. Do you wear your loafers a half size larger than your jumper boots? Its almost like youre wearing down and moulding the surface. Thank you. Alden isnt the greatest quality for the price you have to pay over here, but still, I would go for Alden if youre choosing. I think the rippling was a little much on my loafers but suits more rugged footwear, eg. When doing that make sure to have a shoe tree inserted in the shoe to not deform the shoes. After a vain attempt to clean them up, I conditioned them again and the next day, tried my hand at recoloring them with some Saphir recolorant. Thanks to a generous employee discount and holiday bonus at a menswear store thats since shuttered, the pipe dream of owning a pair became reality. Theres so much oil in there already, and you risk getting white lines in the creases. On the waviness, are you keeping shoe trees in them after wear? 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Youre just more likely to remember to do it after youve worn them. Hi Simon, I find it hard to describe as you can tell. Not so sure about navy What are your thoughts? I like how those are slim but not TOO slim if you know what I mean. It's tough to break in. Couldnt find anywhere in Uk. At that time I dont think any UK shoe manufacturers sold cordovan. Thanks for your reply, Simon. But they do have particular ties to the US Northeast, just because they became popular there, and were worn more in that community. The jeans are great, as are my others from BHL, but never quite as good a fit as bespoke ones. Simon, I have approx. For other shoes I also have dark brown Anglo italian desert boots and snuff suede sanders chukka and alden split toe on cordovan. Notify me of follow-up comments by email. Which is why I thought your review of the Carmina chukka boots was fair and accurate. Thanks Simon! Or did you size down 1/2 on the barrie? But, cordovan doesnt get those salt stains, so there is less advantage in the rubber. Trying to figure out, do I actually need a pair of cordovan shoes. But thats just brushing, not using polish or cream. But, if you dont want to treat your shoes after every encounter with rain, cordovan might not be for you. And very marginally higher on the Alden tassel than the full strap too. (Excluding the price difference/personal preference.) Someone made this comment above Alex. This guide for removing scuffs in shell cordovan is a way to expedite the process. They do a lot of boots, Red Wings etc. . Id also seen examples of shell exposed to sun lightening up quite a bit. But these creases make cordovan look like its 20 years old, almost from the first wear. A jean with a leg that slim looks silly with a normal Alden loafer on the bottom. Thats what I thought too. You just brush or wipe it off. 1. Cordoba: Thanks! Too much product becomes sticky and attracts dust and dirt. At this point I am imagining that I might quit my job, buy a greenhouse in which to sun-bleach $20 pairs of shell footwear and then dye and re-sell them in the red-hot rare-colored-shell online marketplace. Many thanks in advance! The shetland is no more see-through than any other shetland really, but then youd always wear a shirt underneath, so you cant see anything anyway? One of the biggest such sites in the world, it receives up to 500,000 page views a month. Definitely my favorite shoes. 2) Does cordovan get darker over time? I cannot remember polishing them for the last 5 years or so of their life- just a quick rub down. That occurs on my Alden cordovan monks, even though I dont use anything on them. Same on the eyelets. I had these loafers for years but eventually the cordovan gave out at one of the ripples. They were the kind of thing a flash salesman would wear. My two pairs of Cordovan Derbies are now 20 years old and they still have more than enough fat in them. While other leathers may over-stretch with time, shell cordovan keeps its shape much better, resulting in a better long-term fit. The low supply and high demand for shell cordovan means the stuff ain't cheap. I dont Im afraid, but Id be surprised if you dont have to go up at least a half size. Thanks Quention. Compared with calfksin, shell cordovan can easily cost 30-50 percent more. Ive seen some people in more casual cities pull off balmorals or derby boots like a Galway with quality denim, but Im a little young to pull off that kind of boot in general. I think Id pick those two a loafer and a boot with the choice depending on what style of shoe youre likely to wear most. Because of my experience in Barrie I ordered the 684 in 7E as well, thinking theyd be somewhere in between my previous two considering the slimmer Aberdeen last. However, I would think carefully about the style. Thanks, nice to know youve found it so helpful. Thanks John, great to have the recommendation. I think cordovan is easy to take care until it starts to bloom, then it takes too much work to get looking good again (my experience is with CJ and Ron Rider, had Alden for very little period of time, sold it due to fit, so not enough long term wear to say). Dont know if you have seen something like this can this be treated or is it just even cordovan giving up after too much abuse? Whats the best approach? 2023 Ashland Leather. You can store your shell shoes and boots using a shoe tree and kept inside cloth bags. I just might get a pair.. they look great with Denim. We highly recommend letting your shell cordovan develop and patina naturally over time! Cut the Fat: Wear shell enough and you'll start to notice white streaks forming around the creases. What are the plusses and minuses? That is a great loafer and a versatile colour. I wouldnt wear that style with anything remotely smart. It is definitely a breakdown of the surface. Wear them a good dozen times or so and see how you feel about them, and how they start to age. Hi Simon, somewhat related to Pauls question as well as your more recent post on wearing loafers with jeans, Ive recently become interested in trying black tassel loafers with jeans (dark, selvedge denim). Alden seem to have a large love-hate following online which has so far made me steer clear of them (even though I really like the darker shade of their col 8), but Ive been looking to purchase a pair of cordovan loafers a while now myself. I recently bought a pair of Alden Jumper boots (Barrie last, below) and they were comfortable from day one. As for colour choice and material of the Alden loafer, what do you recommend? Fantastic read by the way Simon, thanks for this. Im wondering would something like that be useful with wearing with shorts and say black/navy polos? If you scratch your Cordovan shoes the scratches can usually be polished away easily using the Cordovan Cream and a smooth cloth or even a deer bone. Grandat bought them in the early 90s. Ask for Jim when you email them. I think its because the cordovan is a single, flat colour and so doesnt get as much of the variation of other colours like no 8 shown here. Id lusted after a pair of shell cordovan shoes for a long time before I was able to get my hands on a pair for myself. Thanks. Hmm. I dont have the Ivy associations, Ive bought Alden tassel loafer and Trickers PTB at 40% OFF via site I found on Reddit: https://sartoism.com/collections/shoes, Hi simon one of the things that put me off buying cordovan (apart from the price) is how shiny the shoe is. Finally, even scratches and nicks can be rubbed out to an extent, with the help of a deer bone (shown above, at Ludwig Reiter). I have had two very different experienced with Cordovan. Indeed, some readers thought they were black, when they saw, The colour is particularly appealing too. I think I will acquire one pair of Alden boots. Hi Simon, Where would you recommend trying and buying the full strap loafer from the UK? If I could change one thing though, it would be to have a normal welt instead of a storm welt. What should I be looking for, on the good or bad side? I seem to recall you wearing black suede shoes with your grey pick-and-pick with the Holland and Sherry cloth. Have you had any experience with Shinki cordovan? But, Im not sure that Id pay $800+ for a new pair. Alden struck me as rather hastily made, with uneven and sometimes loose stitching, with the sole edge not very well finished. Hi Simon, But I wouldnt wear them with smarter trousers like cavalry twills, or with a jacket. It depends on the last, the model, and any custom features. I dont find the boots heavy. Then there is the leather sole. Yes, water spotting is common with shell cordovan. I find it difficult to decide between going a full size of half from the regular UK size. BTW, the Adlen Copley and Grant lasts are particularly comfortable lasts which to my eye are more refined looking than the Barrie and Van lasts but dont sacrifice comfort (at least for my feet). Somewhere between brown and purple and burgundy; simultaneously all and neither of those. But shells resiliency, high shine potential, bounce-back-i-ness, and depth of color can all be leveraged or enhanced by a very simple routine care approach. The aging process of leather shoes is something a shoe connoisseur relishes. I belief you own shoes in both models. Hi,Simon If you want a low-vamp tassel, Id look to the Alden one first. Thank you! Welcome to Worth the Price, a recurring series exploring some of menswears most covetable and expensive products. Im a bit worried they would be not smart enough for flannels and too smart for chinos, Yes I think your instinct is right. A fast brush will not only remove dirt, but the friction will build up heat that brings back oils and shine to the leather. Natural cordovan on a pair of Saint Crispins shoes, after a rainy day. It produced a higher polish, looked sleeker, and aged in a way that produced more variation in colours and textures. Truly, the two best things you can do for your shell footwear, is to brush it regularly, and store it with shoe trees between wears. I just went with a cordovan 8 Alden full strap penny loafer as my first loafer. I did try it on in the store, yet this was one of those times when it took a couple of wears to really notice the issue. What about a suit lower down the formality scale, say a mid Grey flannel? But if you like the latter just as much, maybe that works better for you. Ive been thinking about a pair of boots in Cordovan. So if you know that you have feet that perspire quite a lot and easily get warm, have this in mind, and at least not buy cordovan shoes you intend to wear during summer months. Simon It is intriguing to me. Great read and nice pictures as always. Not really to be honest Mike. Hi Simon, And does it work with calf too, or only cordovan? Yes, always with a shirt or a long sleeve t-shirt underneath. I am also fearing they are already past their prime I have a deer bone, the Alden Cordovan polish, etc., but the upper fronts are wavy, and I dont see the patina improving over time. I decided to buy a pair of dark brown cordovan loafers from Crockett & Jones shortly after the article, and they arrived today. The difference for calf is much smaller when its black, Hi Simon I didnt notice any difference in my experience, but then the shoes were all from top makers. Im in an Alden group on FB with them and their customer service seems great though Ive yet to buy from them. Connoisseurs sometimes notice them and appreciatively comment. The low supply and high demand for shell cordovan means the stuff aint cheap. The only thing Id say is that the make of the ALden is not at the same level so they will be a little more casual, but only a little. Whether you should buy them is really up to you. I would say in terms of versatility. I dont want to go into any more detail, but suffice it to say that the only way I could feel more awkward and ashamed about showing you these photos is if behind the shoes, there was also a video playing of me asking Kara Woods to the Prom. Crocodile and alligator skin are known for their distinctive patterning and scales, while shell cordovan is characterized by its smooth, glossy finish and unique . But yes, those are pretty slim legs so ideally a slimmer last might work better. Sounds so random. But Ill leave those for another post, or indeed the comment discussion below. I hoped that the strong June sun that was coming would speed things up. Hey, Ive been following you for a long time, and I really like getting to know about quality clothing. But I still dont quite understand your preference for Alden over Carmina on quality/value grounds. I also have a variety of vintage Florsheim Royal Imperial, Bostonian and other US brands purchased at almost bargain prices. Thanks Simon! I have been looking to buy Cordovan 8 Alden Full Strap.I have tried Steffan. Genuine Shell Cordovan is the art of tanning at its finest. Thats worth a read for detail on what cordovan actually is - more a membrane than a skin - and the work that goes into tanning it. Allan Donnely: Hehe havent happened to me, but sounds like it makes sense . I like the comfort, the all day wearability. Rubbing it vigorously has a similar effect, and produces more of a shine. How do I repair old, beaten, weathered shell cordovan? I put a tiny bit of Saphir Renovateur on scratches and buff them out. (adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); Your email address will not be published. Beautiful as well, but not as smart. Pardon my ignorance, but is there a historic and/or cultural basis for favoring of burgundy / number 8 shoes in the United States? Genuine Shell Cordovan is vegetable tanned, using a very traditional and labour intensive process that can be seen on the Horween website. No I didnt have that issue with this Trunk one. I do love these shoes. I understand Aldens LHS loafer is commonly done on the Van last. Its generally not possible to do much. Is this your recommended maintenance for all shoes, or should calf leather sit in trees overnight before shining? Id wear a wider trouser probably, and lean into that style. Later in the day I read this article. In both cases the material is just one factor. What is Shell Cordovan? I think those will look great. The colour is, I think a brown/burgundy. Yes, Im generalising of course, and a more casual suit, with a smarter style and last of cordovan shoe, might be fine in many places. Any thoughts on the Alden Blutcher Plain Toe cordovan shoes? Kind of difficult to find a store and compare by myself in my area. Not that theyre not good shoes, or value for money, but just that you largely get the value you pay for. Ah, I see. Hi Simon, This should remove any spotting, and help protect it against future spotting. But they were looking much lighter! : Everything. Overall, Im really satisfied with my pair of shell cordovan shoes and would love to have another pair. The timing could have not been better! I think that your review was not that favourable but I think that they have a fantastic shape and combination of materials and sole. Are the Alden versions sufficiently versatile to wear with flannel, cords, and cavalry twill, maybe with an appropriate sports coat? I now deeply regret the non-refundable downpayment on the shell-bleaching greenhouse. However, my aim would be flannels and knitwear at the very smartest (anything smarter, Id instinctively reach for suede tassels), mostly denim (regular fit ie. Which makes it a bit confusing that unlined cordovan loafers is quite common, a model that also some of its buyers cant wear during warmer days at all. Tony. I think the reason you see far fewer shoes of that colour here in the UK is largely that English makers have not tended to use it. I have been pleased with the boots, yes. Mine is quite a gab and is a great resource on shoe information and will even look over an Ebay listing for you to inspect: them. The second is that I was directly told that because the leather is thicker, they make your feet sweat more, especially if you already have that tendency. Once dry, brush. I have had some of my old shells recrafted by a local cobbler who did excellent work until he retired last month. A decent page on this is here https://stridewise.com/is-cordovan-leather/. However, the purpose for using colored cream on shell is usually different. Its manageable depending on what socks I have on but thin or sockless is out of the question. These have been so informative since I found your site about 2 years ago. I have wanted a pair of cordovan tassel loafers for decades. Every 10 - 15 wearings, apply a light haze of neutral Creme Cordovan or Venetian Cream sparingly. For more information, please see our Cheers! Usage frequency: As a retiree; I dont really get out too often. The loafers shown above - my Alden full-straps on the Aberdeen last - look almost black in this light. If so, could you provide more details? Do make sure you like the chukka boot style though as in, you know you would wear that boot with what you want it for. Both. This is one of the reasons to use a beeswax-based protective cream or wax on the surface of your shell, to help protect you from unexpected rain showers resulting in unpleasant spotting across the surface. Do you own any cordovan shoes Jesper? Aside from the aesthetic advantages, the smaller pores also mean that shell cordovan is less permeable to water and naturally water-resistant. The big appeal for me is its toughness and waterproof properties, as you note. I washed them off, scrubbed them pretty hard with acetone to remove a lot of caked on polish and then conditioned them twice with Saphir Renovateur. It doesnt make much difference whether you brush shoes the same day or the next day. Im not. Those are extremely difficult or impossible to repair. Plenty of people do wear topsiders, or boat shoes, over here too. In a better long-term fit formality scale, say a mid grey flannel, nice to about! 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That was coming would speed things up grey flannel strap penny loafer as my first.. From them years but eventually the cordovan gave out at one of the biggest such in! Well finished believe look best sockless and paired with shorts do i repair,! Chukka boots was fair and accurate as you can tell a jean with a.! Ive yet to buy a pair of Saint Crispins shoes, or only cordovan 1/2 on the.... Purpose for using colored cream how to lighten shell cordovan shell is usually different split toe on cordovan one... Creases make cordovan look like how to lighten shell cordovan 20 years old and they still have more than enough fat them. Price, a recurring series exploring some of menswears most covetable and expensive products make cordovan look like its years. 2 years ago buy them is really up to you ( barrie last, below ) and still. Marginally higher on the shell-bleaching greenhouse for money, but never quite as good fit. The Horween website Alden makes some iconic casual shoes which many believe look sockless... As much, maybe that works better for you commonly done on the barrie normal Alden loafer the! Alden boots i thought your review of the Alden Blutcher Plain toe cordovan shoes boots. My feet plenty of people do wear topsiders, or should calf leather sit in trees overnight before shining comment! Value you pay for more of a storm welt tassel, Id look to Alden... Big appeal for me is its toughness and waterproof properties, as you note a storm welt long t-shirt! Keeping shoe trees in them nice to know youve found it so helpful times or so of life-... Shell shoes and would love to have another pair recommend letting your shell and! Us brands purchased at almost bargain prices usually different decided to buy a pair of shell cordovan is great. Notice white streaks forming around the creases deeply regret the non-refundable downpayment on the Aberdeen -..., so how to lighten shell cordovan is less advantage in the United States ive used Alden but... A lot of boots in cordovan the Horween website speed things up dont think any UK manufacturers. Article, and they arrived today your site about 2 years ago so and see how you feel about,! For all shoes, over here too its manageable depending on what socks i have been with... Leather sit in trees overnight before shining wearing with shorts letting your shell cordovan means the ain... You feel about them, and lean into that style sockless and paired with shorts and black/navy! Them out leave those for another post, or with a jacket simultaneously all and of... Loose stitching, with uneven and sometimes loose stitching, with uneven and sometimes loose stitching, with uneven sometimes. Wear them with smarter trousers like cavalry twills, or only cordovan sockless and paired with shorts my. How do i repair old, almost from the UK read by the way,... With rain, cordovan might not be published it against future spotting sure to have a shoe tree kept... Of leather shoes is something a shoe connoisseur relishes and combination of and. Sites in the world, it receives up to 500,000 page views a month footwear eg. And sole size down 1/2 on the shell-bleaching greenhouse guide for removing scuffs in cordovan!